bammer
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Post by bammer on Jan 11, 2011 15:38:53 GMT -5
11..... Containment tie-offs may not always stretch the length of the row. I always tie off as needed. Sometimes 1/2 a row only on one side or both. Or a partial tie-off, Example tie off from post B and tie to post E to contain those plants, Don't try to loop around posts inbetween B&E, just pull tight when you do tie off, sometimes it's necessary to run containment on both sides and then reach thru the jungle and tie both containment strings together for better support and helps to keep your rows clear for walking down. Yes there is a bit of tying involved but I don't like pruning. A x x x x B x x x x C x x x x D x x x x E x x x x F x x x x G Attachments:
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bammer
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Post by bammer on Jan 11, 2011 15:48:10 GMT -5
12...... I have very limited space for my growing so I have my rows on 4' centers, it would be ideal if you had space to put your rows on 5' or 6' centers as you can see you would have much more space to work with. Attachments:
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bammer
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Post by bammer on Jan 15, 2011 8:26:28 GMT -5
Blane, Good find on the video, Thats the basic idea, I don't weave in and out of plants anymore, and like he said you can just run the twine down each side without weaving in and out of plants. It's easier and faster. I would like to post videos and pics alot more but I don't know much about doing that kinda stuff, I'm very challenged when it comes to modern technology.
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grunt
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Post by grunt on Jan 15, 2011 16:32:02 GMT -5
If you aren't going to weave around the plants, you may have to tie the lines together between plants, to keep them from pulling the lines apart and down.
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bammer
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Post by bammer on Jan 15, 2011 20:08:27 GMT -5
If you aren't going to weave around the plants, you may have to tie the lines together between plants, to keep them from pulling the lines apart and down. That is true, I was trying to explain this in #11. (Containment tie offs)
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bammer
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Post by bammer on Jan 20, 2011 17:43:56 GMT -5
Black Krim and Black& Brown Boar in the weave, I have them marked on the end posts Attachments:
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surf4grrl
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Post by surf4grrl on Feb 14, 2011 14:44:18 GMT -5
Bammer,
Thanks for posting all this - you put your plants pretty close - how is it with 18" apart? Did you have alot of trouble with disease?
I'm interested in sticking them closer together - I got inot a protracted weave dicussion somewhere else. LOL.
The bars you are using, can you tell me more about them?
Any help is appreciated. I'm just for an easier way to quantity... I never thought about putting more than 2 plants to a post. Interesting. I do weave though because otherwise they have a tendency to fall to the side -- the figure eight in the middle keeps them in one spot relatively speaking.
That way - I can grow out more rare varieties and share - hint hint.
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bammer
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Post by bammer on Feb 14, 2011 18:38:21 GMT -5
Yesum, 18" works very well, last year I planted 3 plants and a post and plants were @ 18", I believe they pollinate better, the production did not go down as I grew them closer together.
This year I'm going to put 4 plants and a post. My posts are 1" 1/4 steel pipe 7' tall, I drive in the ground about a foot.
I bet you could get by by using T-posts every other post. For example start from one end with a T- post - 3 or 4 plants then a post ( could be a wooden 2"x2" or 3/4" conduit or bamboo or something along those lines, this would cut your T- post buying in half. Just a thought.
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surf4grrl
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Post by surf4grrl on Feb 14, 2011 19:38:20 GMT -5
Bammer, thank you for the great ideas.
I promise to post pics once I start staking and see how it all shakes out.
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grunt
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Post by grunt on Feb 15, 2011 11:25:17 GMT -5
Get hold of some 2" pipe, cut it into 2' sections, drive them into the ground, and use them as sockets for 2"x2" stakes. If you can get appropriate sized pipe cheap, use 1 1/2" pipe for stakes with the sockets, or go larger with both = 3" sockets and 2" verticals. Drift the sockets in almost level with the ground surface. You only have to have the verticals going about 6" into the sockets, but you want about 2' of socket in the ground, or the weight of the plants can pull them over.
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Post by reubent on Mar 15, 2011 23:05:30 GMT -5
so what's it have to do with FL? that's what all the growers round here do, and I do too, they and I use oak stakes driven in the ground with a steel post driver. except I use taller ones because I grow indeterminates, and I use bailing twine so the whole business (except stakes) will rot when we're finished. I used hickory stakes once, and they worked fine. one here and there will split when driving them, but for me they're as cheap as a little work sawing up a log on the mill. Of course they're hiring spanish guys to do it, I'm just me and my lonesome unless someone comes along and wants to help. PS; on the years when I'm not so serious about it they don't get staked, but I'm gettin more serious about it than ever now and might just specialize in good flavored maters for a business if it works out.
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bammer
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Post by bammer on Mar 26, 2011 6:41:39 GMT -5
March 2011 This years weave start, You don't have to put your posts in before the plants, just be sure you space everything out right. Attachments:
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bammer
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Post by bammer on Mar 26, 2011 10:45:43 GMT -5
Here is what I use, its called the orange line, it comes in a box of 2 rolls 10,000 ft each roll thats 20,000ft for 26.99 but the kicker is shipping, it's still a good deal for those of you growing thousands of tomatos, I used to use the 2500 ft rolls of sissle for $12. www.qcsupply.com/90490-orangeline-plastic-baler-twine.htmlThese rolls will fit in a 3-gal bucket
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jcm05
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Post by jcm05 on Mar 26, 2011 13:58:51 GMT -5
Bammer does that line stretch at all? Does it need to be tightened up throughout the season?
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grunt
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Post by grunt on Mar 26, 2011 14:18:11 GMT -5
It's the same line I use on my setup. I see no stretching with mine, but I yard mine tight enough it squeaks. I usually do a tightening on the heaviest loaded lines during the heat of the day, once the plants load up with fruit.
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