surf4grrl
Tomato Gardener
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Organic farmer
Posts: 99
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Post by surf4grrl on Mar 19, 2011 12:01:39 GMT -5
I use soil blocks, starting for peppers and tomatoes at the 3/4" - the soil blocks are much easier to use - but it takes a leap of faith to switch from using plugs, pots etc.
In the long run, it's cheaper, easier and saves a ton of time if you're planting out in the field. Plus, believe it or not the seedlings are more vigorous and are air pruned all around the block, instead of just the bottom.
For seedlings, my customers still like the pots and I still use plug trays, though I'm trying to get them to switch this year. We'll see how it goes. Old habits die hard.
If anyone is interested in the soil block method, I will post my progress.
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Post by willyswoodpile on Mar 19, 2011 15:05:32 GMT -5
Yes, please post your progress. It looks very interesting.
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Post by summerhawk on Mar 19, 2011 17:10:44 GMT -5
Yes please, I am considering the purchase of some soil block makers... I would like to know the details of your experience using them this year... Pictures sound great! Post 'em!!!!
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bunkie
Tomato Gardener
Posts: 69
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Post by bunkie on Mar 20, 2011 9:38:46 GMT -5
yes surf, post your progress and pics.
i have two soil blockers and love them! i use them for the cukes, melons and squash plants, but this year may try getting ahead start on things like radishes and carrots. it's fun experimenting with them.
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surf4grrl
Tomato Gardener
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Organic farmer
Posts: 99
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Post by surf4grrl on Mar 22, 2011 15:33:35 GMT -5
I will post pics and info when I start them next week in soil blocks - right now it's all plugs for the customers. I do love the soil blocks - it is just so very much easier.
No washing empty pots, empty plastic pots that has to be chased down in the field, boxes of pots to store etc etc.
This will be my first year starting some larger seed (like corn - fliorani, blue hopi and bloody butcher) in the soil blocks.
On a completely different note - It's due to snow tomorrow - I just wish winter was over!!
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Post by fortyonenorth on Mar 23, 2011 10:40:57 GMT -5
I've been using soil blocks for the past several years and like them a lot. I've had mixed results starting tomato and pepper seeds in the 3/4" blocks, but have used them successfully with small flower seeds.
My current regimen is to pre-sprout tomatoes and peppers in baggies and then immediately move to 2" blocks. After about 3-4 weeks I transplant to the big 4" block. That really makes for an outstanding, sturdy transplant by 6-8 weeks. Last year, at 8 weeks I had 3' tall plants in the 4" blocks.
The only drawback with the big blocks is that it takes a good amount of work to press them all. This year I'm going to transplant to both the 4" blocks and 4" cowpots and see how they compare.
I also use the blocks, with excellent results, for starting all my curcurbits, beans, lettuce, spinach, and parsley.
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surf4grrl
Tomato Gardener
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Organic farmer
Posts: 99
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Post by surf4grrl on Mar 23, 2011 11:55:52 GMT -5
fortyonenorth,
Are you using heat mats etc? I'm doing very large scale with a few hundred varieties so soil blocks have been the way to go for me. The pre-germ etc is impractical - but I'm wondering why you're germination isn't so great - what are doing where you have pre-sprout?
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Post by tucsontomato on Mar 23, 2011 18:58:07 GMT -5
Surf4grrl-
I am interested to see how your customers like using soil blocks.
My avatar is of a tomato in a soil block- a bit root bound- I wouldn't advise letting them get this big before transplanting them into a bigger pot!
My experience so far- the most common block- I think the 2"- is very effective- especially with the deep 1" dowels and the tweezers for moving the blocks. It takes some getting used to using, but once you get a hang of the consistency you could probably make a soil block using a large ratio of sifted compost.
I wouldn't go with the micro 20- it is good for things like lettuce but it can be very difficult to get off the seed shells with them- and they dry out quickly. The reason why I use the 1" dowel is because the seeds stay moist that far down- I add a bit of fine sifted soil over them and fill the rest of the trough in the block up with water. For me this really increases the rate of germination and decreases the problematic sprouts.
Not to advertise a company but I had a good experience with pottingblocks.com. They had very good prices and the service was exceptional.
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Post by fortyonenorth on Mar 23, 2011 21:54:39 GMT -5
IMO, the micro blocks are just too small for tomato and pepper seeds. I know Eliot Coleman starts his in the micro, so it's probably just a technique (or lack of technique) thing on my part. If I were to use soil blocks from the get-go (rather than the baggie/pre-sprout) I'd go directly to the 2" blocks - or maybe the 1 1/2" blocks. I get really good germination, so I don't see that it would be a waste of effort. The pre-germ is a bit time consuming (I'm starting about 80 varieties of tomatoes and about 30 of peppers) but after a long day's work, I'm ready to veg-out and check the baggies. I find it therapeutic and it's interesting to be able to inspect the germination so closely. Are you using heat mats etc? I'm doing very large scale with a few hundred varieties so soil blocks have been the way to go for me. The pre-germ etc is impractical - but I'm wondering why you're germination isn't so great - what are doing where you have pre-sprout?
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surf4grrl
Tomato Gardener
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Organic farmer
Posts: 99
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Post by surf4grrl on May 3, 2011 9:00:01 GMT -5
OK, howdy here's the soil block pics - sorry it's been crazy, the progression is from the 3/4 inch block to 2 inch blocks and the growth as it goes... This is just a crazy time of year for us farmers - anyway, questions welcome - I'll try to reply as soon as possible I just have to say again, I'd never go back to plugs trays or similiar - so far I'm up to about 12,000 seedlings... The below is a 20 block in my hand This is the pot up to a 2 inch Beauties... Not a styrofoam cup in sight!!!!! (Just for you Darth!!)
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Post by darthslater on May 3, 2011 9:57:58 GMT -5
Yeah, but you can always go to a larger cup when your plants are being held longer, can you do that with a soil block? NO! My cups work extremly well for what I do. If you have a 10 inch or bigger plant in a soil block, guess what happens?
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Post by willyswoodpile on May 3, 2011 10:17:10 GMT -5
Most excellent Surfgrl. It looks like you have found something that works well for you. I'm happy for you, and with you.
Good pics too.
If you are reading this... "Get back to work!" ;D
Terry
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surf4grrl
Tomato Gardener
Head Growerouter
Organic farmer
Posts: 99
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Post by surf4grrl on May 3, 2011 10:55:59 GMT -5
Oh no Darth, we aren't going to get into "my pot is bigger thing" are we. Wait 2 weeks or so and I'll show you my 10 inch plants in a 4 inch soil block, which has the volume of a one quart pot. Don't be so sensitive, it's not the size of your pot, it's how you use it.
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Post by darthslater on May 3, 2011 11:08:46 GMT -5
Hehe I am not sensitive, well my feelings anyway
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PVP
Tomatophile
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Post by PVP on May 3, 2011 13:51:50 GMT -5
Wait 2 weeks or so and I'll show you my 10 inch plants in a 4 inch soil block, which has the volume of a one quart pot. I'd be very interested in how you form the 4-inch soil block with a 1-qt. volume. That would work great for a project I plan to carry out later this summer. Would you be kind enough to show the method and materials you use? Please inform regarding the tray sizes and sources with the block counts? Thanks.
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