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Post by kevin1962 on Feb 25, 2012 12:01:16 GMT -5
Hello, Last year, I started my tomatoes out in standard seed trays under "daylight" fluorescent bulbs, situated just above the surface of the soil. The trays were on heat mats to aid germination. Once the seeds began to germinate and grow, I kept raising the lights so that they were usually no more than 2-3 inches above the leaves. I transplanted the seedlings in to 20oz Styrofoam cups when they had a good set of leaves. I purposely set them deeper in the cup than what they had been in the seed trays in the hopes of making them sturdier and to foster a larger root system. I used very little fertilizer, (fish emulsion, one cap full to two quarts of warm water, and fed this every other week. Eventually, it became necessary to move the lot out of the basement and in to our greenhouse. My question is, why did my tomatoes get so leggy? Some of them were every bit of 36" in height by the time I could get them in the garden? Seeds were started around the 20th of March. A 36" tall tomato vine wasn't as bothersome as was the fact that the diameter of the vine was no more than a pencil. Ultimately, they produced well enough, but i really did not like how the seedlings progressed. Any hints on how I can slow down their growth to focus more on stem strength and a more robust leaf? Thank you. Regards, Kevin
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stratcat
Tomato Fanatic
Tha Green Bomb!
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Post by stratcat on Feb 25, 2012 21:51:20 GMT -5
Hi, Kevin. If you are starting around the 20th of March, when do you set your starts out? I start my plants around 15 April for setting them out at the end of May or the beginning of June. Maybe starting too early? What kind of potting mix do you use? Does it have its own fertilizer? I have been using MiracleGro Potting Mix that has a little fert so I don't add any. Too much fertilizer can make them grow like crazy. Are your plants crammed together closely and fighting for the light? Mine are and they do get leggy. I keep the light as close as I can without touching the plants so they're not reaching. Occasionally, one flies too close to the sun. A few things to think about...
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Post by linuxer1999 on Feb 27, 2012 23:49:32 GMT -5
I am that very kind of manic who starts seeds too early. Green fever. Here, the 50/50 frost date is about April 8. Most serious planters in West TN don't put their EARLY plants in field until late April. This winter is warm though, and I am already hardening off some plants so I can get that earliest ripe tomato in June. I like to shove these early ripe ones under my neighbors noses: "Blaahahah, lookie at what I got a whole WEEK before YOU did!"
It is possible to go from wet seed to hardened plant in just 4 weeks. If you live in Minnesota, Kevin, I cannot imagine why you'd start seeds before April.
Seriously though, "daylight" florescent lighting means blue sky, or "cool" blue. These are the ordinary cheap sorts used for indoor lighting. More expensive red or "warm" white florescents, sometimes sold as "kitchen/bath" types help keep indoor plants short and stocky. This is usually what is preferred if you want to keep squat, mature plants indoors for extended periods.
Learned last year from a farming friend that it is best to plant leggy seedlings horizontally in the ground. If you bury the roots too deep in tight soil, or "overplant" as recommended for tomatoes, the roots may suffocate. Tomatoes are shallow-rooted. I've killed a few over-mature plants this way.
Oh, my poor suffering precious tomatoes.
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Post by kevin1962 on Feb 28, 2012 11:47:40 GMT -5
Thank you both so much for the tips. I think I may hold off starting seeds until the first weekend in April, and perhaps change out the lights. Seems to me that when I was young, I used flourescent lights that gave a purple cast to everything. Made my houseplants grow really lush and dark green. Perhaps I should use those? Thank you again for your help. Best regards, Kevin
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stratcat
Tomato Fanatic
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Post by stratcat on Feb 28, 2012 12:20:41 GMT -5
Hi, Kevin.
YW. So when do you plant in the ground? Count back 6-8 weeks for a sowing date. More like six weeks if your starts grow fast and get out of control.
Good luck!
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Post by kevin1962 on Feb 29, 2012 14:45:32 GMT -5
Thank you John! I think our frost free date is around the end of April, early May. I think I'll hold off starting anything until around April first. I'd rather have them on the smallish side versus the really leggy side.
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Post by mrgreenjeans on Feb 29, 2012 23:39:32 GMT -5
Use the Gro-Lux brand bulbs found at big box stores instead of standard cool white bulbs...they are designed for plant growth. I'm sure that will cure your leggy problem.
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Post by linuxer1999 on Mar 3, 2012 0:33:42 GMT -5
I like this almanac site to look up the frost date for an area: www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-datesJust put your zip code in the "Location:" input box. But never let them tell you it is too early to dream of ripe tomatoes! Attachments:
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