sorellina
Breeder in Training
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Posts: 148
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Post by sorellina on Feb 25, 2010 8:32:34 GMT -5
Ciao all- Here are a few recent seedling photos taken 23 Feb: Rocoto Red - Family Pubescens..note the fuzzy leaves Fatalii - new seed source..this one died of damp off, his only seedling loss last year Bonda ma Jacques - a lesser-known Chinense from a friend in Ottawa Zavory - from John Hot Paper Lantern - from John NuMex Sunrise - Family Annum, from Rich You can see how the Annums really take off as compared to the Chinenses here.
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Post by giardiniere on Feb 25, 2010 9:54:29 GMT -5
Ciao cara, Those all look really healthy. Thanks for sharing.
XOXO
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Penny
Tomato Fanatic
Posts: 273
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Post by Penny on Feb 25, 2010 10:08:38 GMT -5
Good stuff, looks great!
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landarc
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FORUM HERMIT
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Post by landarc on Feb 25, 2010 11:06:00 GMT -5
I feel so inadequate
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nolika
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Post by nolika on Feb 26, 2010 4:24:04 GMT -5
Sorellina, do you grow them under artificial lights? Mine never look so robust and 'bushy', but I do only have two south facing windows and those are mostly taken by tomatoes Could you please describe your 'seed - to - plant' procedures (type of soil, watering, feeding, and things like that...). I would really like to have my pepper plants look like this
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sorellina
Breeder in Training
Voice of Reason
Posts: 148
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Post by sorellina on Feb 26, 2010 6:26:13 GMT -5
Ciao Nolika-
It's a combination of starting in mid-January since he won't be transplanting until at least the end of May, more like the beginning of June, using bottom heat for the trays, and flourescent lighting placed as close to the tops of the seedlings as possible. He uses a heating mat underneath the seed-starting flat. You could try using one from a pharmacy for back pain, but those usually shut off automatically at some point. I'm not sure if your garden supply centres would carry it, but you'll definitely find stuff on the net about it. The main thing is to insulate the flats and keep them from drafts while they germinate. After germination, the lights really help them take off. Plants placed in the sunniest of windows are still not going to receive all the light they crave and they're bound to get leggy. Putting the light source so close to the leaves means they get maximum UV exposure. Some people even put aluminum foil around their seedlings and lights to reflect back any light that is lost. As for soil, I use a soilless seed-starting mix called Pro-Mix. If you can't find that exact name, don't worry. What you're looking for is a mix of perlite, vermiculite, and peat. You don't want top soil and you don't want Miracle Gro type stuff with a lot of nutrients already in it. Seeds don't need that kind of thing yet and you're bound to do more harm than good feeding them from the start. They get all that stuff in their seed. Once you transplant into cups, use a weak solution of some kind of granular food that you dissolve in water beforehand with the numbers 10:10:10. Some people can argue the EXACT numbers, but don't worry so much at this stage. They just need a little food at this point and will be fine after this until you transplant them into their permanent homes outside.
Heat and light, those are the most important things for peppers.
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nolika
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Post by nolika on Feb 26, 2010 11:38:37 GMT -5
Mid January? I guess I'm kind of late then. I was planing on starting my seeds in the beginning of March. I guess I will use your methods next year... Thanks for the advice
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Post by poypoyking on Feb 26, 2010 12:12:28 GMT -5
For planting the first week of June I will be starting mine at the end of March, but I will only be potting up to a 4" pot (approximately 10cm) before transplanting to the garden.
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sorellina
Breeder in Training
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Posts: 148
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Post by sorellina on Feb 26, 2010 19:45:54 GMT -5
Ciao Nolika- He starts the ones that take longer like those in the Chinense and Pubescens families. Baccatums and Annums are much faster growers, so things like serranos and jalapenos you don't need to start early. If you have questions about which families the varieties you have belong to, just ask. One of us is bound to know the answer or can help you find it.
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Post by poypoyking on Feb 27, 2010 16:59:02 GMT -5
Ciao Nolika- He starts the ones that take longer like those in the Chinense and Pubescens families. Baccatums and Annums are much faster growers, so things like serranos and jalapenos you don't need to start early. If you have questions about which families the varieties you have belong to, just ask. One of us is bound to know the answer or can help you find it. So I would want to start the Suave peppers early? They are in the Chinense family.
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sorellina
Breeder in Training
Voice of Reason
Posts: 148
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Post by sorellina on Feb 28, 2010 7:59:17 GMT -5
Ciao PPK-
Yes, that's right, you should be starting your Chinenses now.
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sorellina
Breeder in Training
Voice of Reason
Posts: 148
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Post by sorellina on Mar 9, 2010 9:41:39 GMT -5
Ciao all- Here are photos of some of Duane's largest seedlings, started 24 Jan 10 and photos taken 8 March 10. Peach Habanero Yellow Habanero Rocoto Red - family Pubescens - plant is fuzzy, seeds are black Lemon Drop - family Baccatum Orange Thai Hot Paper Lantern
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sorellina
Breeder in Training
Voice of Reason
Posts: 148
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Post by sorellina on Mar 10, 2010 9:23:57 GMT -5
Fatalii Bonda ma Jacques Douglah Zavory
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sorellina
Breeder in Training
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Posts: 148
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Post by sorellina on Mar 10, 2010 9:34:47 GMT -5
A few early Annums: NuMex Sunrise Sunset's super big and since it's not in a flat, I forgot to take a photo. Next time! NuMex Twilight Albino Bullnose - this guy got wilty in the middle of the flat, so may need a few nutrients to get it back on track Anaheim TMR Pimiento de Padrone - this guy could also use a shot of N Sweet Pickle - check out the super wonky leaf! Alma Paprika Serrano
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Post by dld on Mar 10, 2010 9:42:26 GMT -5
Wonky leaf... dang back to spellcheck..
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