jcm05
Administrator
Posts: 1,685
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Post by jcm05 on Mar 26, 2010 7:39:45 GMT -5
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bammer
Tomato Fanatic
Turkaconus Freak & Mater Head
Posts: 361
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Post by bammer on Dec 31, 2010 20:22:44 GMT -5
Jcms got a good plan. When I used cages I put them in rows 4' apart and bumped them together in the row. and would slide a long piece of re-bar thru the base and then drive a stake to hold the re-bar which would hold the cages from blowing over when they get top heavy. The pic is a bit small I don't know how to enlarge. also mulch the rows with pinestraw and inside the cage I use grass clippings or shredded leaves Attachments:
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jcm05
Administrator
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Post by jcm05 on Jan 1, 2011 10:27:07 GMT -5
You need to link to the photo....not attach it. Nice lookin cages though. Whats the diameter on them? How many squares?
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bammer
Tomato Fanatic
Turkaconus Freak & Mater Head
Posts: 361
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Post by bammer on Jan 2, 2011 14:38:07 GMT -5
interesting anchor I am not sure that would hold some of the top heavy indet here in a July storm though. I'll put 3 or 4 stakes per 30' row of cages JT, I don't know how to link pics directly. I think I have 11 or 12 squares per cage. Attachments:
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Post by kevin1962 on Feb 11, 2011 16:26:37 GMT -5
Hey JCM, how tall are those cages? They look to be 6ft. Regards, Kevin
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jcm05
Administrator
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Post by jcm05 on Feb 11, 2011 18:49:55 GMT -5
Only 5 feet.
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Post by willyswoodpile on Feb 11, 2011 19:55:00 GMT -5
These are the same cages as I have. Although mine are a bit larger.
Putting them on early and anchoring them properly [doing it right the first time] will save you from loads of trouble later on. They will fall over; especially if they catch wind like a sail.
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Post by veggie maker on Apr 28, 2011 20:54:05 GMT -5
My system is just like described and the rebar system works well for me even in high winds.. I do plant the shortest ones 4ft tall on the side that catches the storm winds and use two 20ft rebar pieces on that row and once in a while get a wind that will lean a few, but not lost one yet... just push it straight and staple it to the ground with a u-shaped rebar. jcm, I see where you bent the wire to hold together.... my hands give out too quick and I started using hog rings ..... they work great and much easier.. one about every two squares.
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jcm05
Administrator
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Post by jcm05 on Apr 29, 2011 7:39:14 GMT -5
jcm, I see where you bent the wire to hold together.... my hands give out too quick and I started using hog rings ..... they work great and much easier.. one about every two squares. That would also make for an extra cage or two per roll because you wont be wasting one extra square per cage to use to tie the ends together.
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Post by darthslater on Apr 29, 2011 7:52:42 GMT -5
What is the cost and how many cages do you get per roll?
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jcm05
Administrator
Posts: 1,685
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Post by jcm05 on Apr 29, 2011 8:16:49 GMT -5
I haven't priced the rolls lately. I recall them being roughly $4-5 per cage, but I got much of it free here and there. Good investment considering they will last forever.
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Post by veggie maker on Apr 29, 2011 13:36:46 GMT -5
I've been messing around with all types of support that I could think of for the last few years, since I finally have a space large enough to grow about 40 plants each year and finally settled on crw cages... I only had about 8 or 9 cages from salvaged wire and broke down and bought the 150 ft roll that is 5ft wide. for 150.00 at home depot.. it was the cheapest I could find... My first cages are about 24in diameter and that equals a 6ft length.... these are more stable and they were 4ft tall, but they tend to let smaller varieties lay over till tall enough to go up... so I concluded smaller was better so I made a couple out of the salvage that was about 14in diameter, but these proved to be too small for me... too unstable unless you use rebar pins on each cage... so I have finally made cages 18in or 20in diameter... do a few different sizes first before cutting up all your wire... I have found for my needs I like having different sizes depending on the tomato variety.... another thing is that 24in diameter cages take up a lot of room and I finally settled on 5ft between rows and 2ft between plants... this gives me plenty of room between rows to carry a basket and not damage the plants while harvesting. So the number of cages depends on the diameter you cut.. www.csgnetwork.com/circlecalc.html I also used a fence post at each end of the 20ft row about 2.5ft deep which is very solid and threaded a strong poly cord through the top square of each cage tied to the two posts with a large turnbuckle at one end to keep it taught. this works well, but I had to move the posts each year for rotation or have posts all over my garden so settled on on the 20ft rebar through the bottom and held down with rebar u shaped staples about 3ft long .. I use three staples on each one. These are easier and faster to move each year .... also have easier access to get the tractor in with the rototiller attachment each spring to turn in the horse manure a couple months before planting. Always willing to change... I am basically lazy and easier is better so I keep searching... LOL. ;D
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Post by willyswoodpile on Apr 29, 2011 19:20:33 GMT -5
Excellent VM.
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