segregation for anthocyanin types

[jcm05]

Very cool. I can understand why the low light would be detrimental to the color expression, but why is it opposite for the temps?

[PVP]

So then you don't think that the cooler temps are inhibiting phosphorus uptake, like in normal non-anthocyanin type new seedlings, and that the additional "purpling" just accentuates the appearance?

I guess not, because it's not uniform througout the seedling population, huh?

[frogsleapfarm]

mulio - I am also noticing differences within F2 families for degree of purpling on the underside of the cotyledons, but not sure if this is indicative of the anthocyanin fruit epidermis phenotype. I thought I'd mark the darkest and track them through the season.

[frogsleapfarm]

I put on my reading glasses and low and behold the purple dots at the base of the trichomes looks like a pretty good indicator. Thanks Keith.

[jcm05]

[darthslater]

Here are my H-34s that Mule bred.

[darthslater]

Here is another pic of H-34

[frogsleapfarm]

Here's my bed of P20 F2s (two to a hill), heavily selected for the anthocyanin leaf phenotype before transplanting. The leaf/stem color is now mostly gone, and they have almost all started to flower. I can't wait for ripe fruit!

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[jcm05]

Looks good frogs!

[darthslater]

Here is the H-34, I have them in PL also this is one of 200.
I hope we find what we are looking for Lope! I love these guys!!

[frogsleapfarm]

I've got early fruit set on my P20 F2s. Still too early for fruit coloration, but noticed this morning that on some plants there is a distinctive purpling of the pedicel where it butts up against the sepal. In spite of the fact that all F2 plants were selected for anthocyanin accumulation in the seedling stage and again just before transplanting - only about 1/3 are showing this pattern. Hopefully I'll see fruit coloration soon.

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[jcm05]

[darthslater]

Nice guys, I am seeing antho in my H-34s from Mule, only my plants are very small...the fruit is small also and there arent many on the plant.

[ozarklady]

I am still learning seed saving techniques.
I have OSU and it looks similar to the posts, maybe not quite as much blue. It is the most productive plant in the garden at the moment.
What I need to know is this:
I want the tomato to be bluer... So do I pick based on the plant with the most blue fruits, or do I just pick the bluest fruit on one plant? No stems or leaves are blue at all. There is a couple inches at soil level that looks purple that is all.
But, how does one decide which tomato will yield the bluest fruits next year?

[darthslater]

Jul 14, 2010 11:23:50 GMT -5 ozarklady said:

I am still learning seed saving techniques.
I have OSU and it looks similar to the posts, maybe not quite as much blue. It is the most productive plant in the garden at the moment.
What I need to know is this:
I want the tomato to be bluer... So do I pick based on the plant with the most blue fruits, or do I just pick the bluest fruit on one plant? No stems or leaves are blue at all. There is a couple inches at soil level that looks purple that is all.
But, how does one decide which tomato will yield the bluest fruits next year?

In the future, you need to cull all plants that show no blue in the veins at an early age, when the plant has 2 leaves. the rest ....dump. for now, i suggest taking the bluest tomatoes and seeding those only,it is very hard to see the blue in the 2 leave stage, and it will only show in the veins, so look very close, but do not imagine it there!!! Use reading glasses if necessary.