swampr
Global Moderator
Posts: 230
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Post by swampr on May 30, 2010 17:12:26 GMT -5
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stratcat
Tomato Fanatic
Tha Green Bomb!
Neighborhood Pariah
Posts: 422
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Post by stratcat on May 30, 2010 22:29:00 GMT -5
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Post by blackthumb on Jun 1, 2010 2:56:34 GMT -5
It may be too late for most of us this year. However I thought it might be good to make up a list of tomatoes that allegedly have some blight resistance. The blight resistance doesn't mean that the tomatoes can't get blight, it typically just means that they are less likely to get blight and if they do the blight is liable to be slower and less aggressive. I don't know how accurate this list is; that's why I use the word allegedly a lot. Hopefully researchers will do more investigation into blight resistance to try to discover and rate and breed/hybrid blight resistance tomatoes and other crops. I'm hoping that a credible university and/or government agency will do these research and development and make it public.
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Late Blight resistance; allegedly
Ferline F1 Hybrid
Fantastico F1 Hybrid
Mountain Magic
Plum Regal
Legend
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blight resistant tomatos (I think these tomatoes allegedly have some early or/and late blight resistance)
Mountain Magic
Plum Regal
Legend
Sweetie
Matt's cherry tomato
Tommy toe
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Allegedly "Mountain Magic", and "Plum Regal" currently are the varieties that have the best late Blight resistance.
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jcm05
Administrator
Posts: 1,685
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Post by jcm05 on Jun 1, 2010 6:08:37 GMT -5
Man, if my plants go down again this year to LB I am gonna be pissed. I am, however, growing a couple resistant plants this season including Mountain Magic F1. Also, West Virginia '63 which supposedly has some resistance and one common variety Daniels, which last year was the absolute last plant to go down from the LB fiasco. So, if it does hit again, I can at least make some clear observations on these three varieties.
Blackthumb, I believe Mountain Magic F1 and Plum Regal F1 have both been scientifically tested for resistance. Maybe Gobmaters can chime in on his experience with them.
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Post by bluelacedredhead on Jun 1, 2010 13:38:22 GMT -5
I have something affecting some of my tomatoes right now? Early blight mebbe? So I starting searching for natural solutions and here's a page I found www.ghorganics.com/page15.html#Garlic Oil Fungicide Spray: |
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Post by tomstrees on Jun 1, 2010 14:01:10 GMT -5
Man, if my plants go down again this year to LB I am gonna be pissed. I am, however, growing a couple resistant plants this season including Mountain Magic F1. Also, West Virginia '63 which supposedly has some resistance and one common variety Daniels, which last year was the absolute last plant to go down from the LB fiasco. So, if it does hit again, I can at least make some clear observations on these three varieties. Blackthumb, I believe Mountain Magic F1 and Plum Regal F1 have both been scientifically tested for resistance. Maybe Gobmaters can chime in on his experience with them. only a handful of tomatoes I've grown have displayed tolerance to blight: Eva Purple Ball - Thessaloniki - Black Cherry - Yellow Submarine & Spudakee Purple |
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PVP
Tomatophile
head spellerer
Only an Amateur
Posts: 798
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Post by PVP on Jun 2, 2010 14:12:05 GMT -5
I received the following email from Larry Caplan, my Purdue Extension Horticulturalist in Vanderburgh County, Indiana: 06/02/2010 Late Blight of Tomato Update - Late blight of tomato has been confirmed on tomatoes in Boone County KY located in northern KY between Indiana and Ohio. It is likely that other reports of late blight of tomato from Kentucky will be forthcoming. Recently, this disease has also been confirmed in Pennsylvania, Maryland, Louisiana and Florida. See Vegetable Crops Hotline < www.btny.purdue.edu/pubs/vegcrop > issue no. 522 for more details. (Also provided below – Larry) Tomato growers should take action to reduce the chance late blight will become a serious production issue. All growers should scout tomatoes carefully for symptoms of this disease. Transplants should be inspected for late blight before accepting shipment. Crop rotation and fall tillage should have been practiced for this 2010 crop. Volunteer tomatoes or potatoes should be rogued. Plants suspected of harboring late blight should be sent to the Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory or contact your county educator or Dan Egel. One of the preventative fungicide programs described below should be put into place. The fungicide program used will depend on the value of one’s crop and one’s willingness to purchase specialized fungicides. Growers who are far from the reported outbreak and/or cannot afford an expensive fungicide program should at least apply contact fungicides every 7 days or perhaps sooner. Contact fungicides such as those that contain chorothalonil (e.g., Bravo, Echo, Equus) or mancozeb (e.g., Dithane, Manzate, Penncozeb) will slow the rate of spread of late blight. However, these products will not be as effective as some of the specialized systemics described below. Growers who are willing to spend more on their tomatoes may want to consider a program that includes Revus Top. This fungicide contains 2 active ingredients and so should be effective against the common threats of early blight, Septoria leaf blight, anthracnose as well as late blight. If Revus Top is alternated with Quadris or Cabrio, these products should be tank mixed with a contact fungicide. Gavel contains a contact fungicide (mancozeb) in addition to a systemic product labeled against late blight and therefore does not need to be tank mixed with anything else. The specialized systemic products that are the most effective against late blight include Curzate, Gavel, Previcur Flex, Ranman and Tanos (as well as Revus Top). With the exception of Revus Top and Gave, these products will have little or no activity against the common tomato disease we observe most years. Therefore these products cannot be used instead of our usual fungicide products. Organic growers should apply a copper product on a 5-7 day schedule. Always read the product label of any pesticide carefully before use. The Midwest Vegetable Production Guide for Commercial Growers 2010 (ID-56) < www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/ID/ID-56/ > lists these recommended products in more detail. The Vegetable Crops Hotline issue no. 512 contains more information about late blight of tomato. The Purdue University Bulletin BP-80-W <www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/BP-80-W.pdf> has information and photographs of late blight. Contact Dan Egel for more information at (812) 886-0198 or <egel@purdue.edu>. |
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Post by tomstrees on Jun 2, 2010 15:42:05 GMT -5
"Organic growers should apply a copper product on a 5-7 day schedule." I'm very disappointed to read this  |
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jcm05
Administrator
Posts: 1,685
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Post by jcm05 on Jun 2, 2010 21:10:24 GMT -5
I cant understand how people could eat fruit from a plant that a systemic fungicide was used on.  |
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Post by blackthumb on Jun 2, 2010 22:30:20 GMT -5
Late blight of tomato has been confirmed on tomatoes in Boone County KY. That’s only about 20 miles from where I live. So apparently you can vouch that it is a legitimate email and not a hoax? |
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Post by tomstrees on Jun 3, 2010 12:33:49 GMT -5
I cant understand how people could eat fruit from a plant that a systemic fungicide was used on. or even had it running through the plants veins  |
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amideutch
Breeder in Training
Golden Cherokee
Posts: 139
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Post by amideutch on Jun 3, 2010 12:53:43 GMT -5
Three products that can help.
Actinovate
Agri-Fos (Exel LG, same product different name)
Regalia (Extract from the Giant Knotweed plant)
I've used the first two with good results and from what I have read about the third is very promising. All 3 are Bio-friendly. I also use Azoxystrobin which is derived from mushrooms which is locally available here in Germany but in the states it is only commercially available from what I could find. Ami
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PVP
Tomatophile
head spellerer
Only an Amateur
Posts: 798
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Post by PVP on Jun 3, 2010 13:26:13 GMT -5
Late blight of tomato has been confirmed on tomatoes in Boone County KY. That’s only about 20 miles from where I live. So apparently you can vouch that it is a legitimate email and not a hoax? What I can vouch for is that I am in the Purdue Master Gardeners program in Vanderburgh County (Evansville) Indiana and that Larry Caplan is my county's Purdue Extension Horticulturalist who sends out periodic and frequent alerts to all of us in the program. I simply cut and pasted this alert from an email that Larry sent me. I assume it is a legitimate alert and I assume the information given regarding fungicide control is endorsed by Purdue Extension Service. Beyond that, I have no further comment, recommendation or verification of the information or suggested fungicide applications. Peace, PV |
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Post by blackthumb on Jun 3, 2010 15:02:46 GMT -5
That’s only about 20 miles from where I live. So apparently you can vouch that it is a legitimate email and not a hoax? What I can vouch for is that I am in the Purdue Master Gardeners program in Vanderburgh County (Evansville) Indiana and that Larry Caplan is my county's Purdue Extension Horticulturalist who sends out periodic and frequent alerts to all of us in the program. I simply cut and pasted this alert from an email that Larry sent me. I assume it is a legitimate alert and I assume the information given regarding fungicide control is endorsed by Purdue Extension Service. Beyond that, I have no further comment, recommendation or verification of the information or suggested fungicide applications. Peace, PV That sounds legitimate enough to hold weight in my book. I cant understand how people could eat fruit from a plant that a systemic fungicide was used on. Why? What's so bad about it? The particular fungicide families or the systemic part? We are a much healthier society thanks to systemic treatments. For instance in farm raised cattle trichinosis is merely an infinitesimal threat to humans; thanks to the systemic treatments of cattle. Many diseases that used to be plagues are nearly nonexistent. |
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peppereater
Breeder in Training
TREE HUGGER
just tell me when to shut up
Posts: 230
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Post by peppereater on Jun 3, 2010 15:57:50 GMT -5
Well, pigs are susceptible to trichinosis, cows are not. Trichinosis is a parasite, it is treated with something like a wormer, I'm not entirely sure what, but it enters the system and then leaves. Routine treatment for trichinosis is no longer practiced by most small farmers as trichinosis has been essentially eliminated from U.S. pork, to the extent that the rule of thoroughly cooking pork is no longer paramount.
Fungicides are often extremely toxic. They can cause everything from nerve damage to cancer. Systemic means that the product is distributed throughout the system, in it's ultimate sense, this implies that it is in every tissue of the plant including the fruit. There is no concensus as to whether this is always the case, especially depending on the length of time lapsed sense application. Systemic pesticide is commonly used on pecans to prevent borers from ruining the nuts...this leads me to believe that there are levels of pesticide high enough to kill the borers present in the fruit until near harvest time or near that time. Again, this pesticide is one that causes severe nerve damage, I'm speaking here of the DiSyston type insecticides, I am not recalling the scientific name of the chemical. Application is done at the early stage of fruit formation and done only once...there is a long period of days to harvest required by law because of the extreme toxicity and the persistence of the chemical. Yet it is still protecting the nut up to harvest...does this sound like a safe product? Absolutely not. Is it a reasonably low risk practice to eat the nuts, in other words, are you likely to have noticeable health problems attributable to the pesticide? No.
Systemic pesticides are not labeled for use on tomatoes. The same products used on nut crops. They are not considered safe for use on tomatoes. So the question becomes, does using systemic fungicides pose an acceptable risk with tomatoes? Hmmm. I suppose we all may have eaten these fungicides in our produce, but would you knowingly consume, or apply, these fungicides, knowing that there are numerous known toxic effects including cumulative dosage and long term risks like cancer? Well, I choose to eliminate that risk to the extent I'm able, beginning by never applying these fungicides in my garden.
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